Out of the frying pan: Yotam Ottolenghi on olive oil – recipes | Main course (2024)

The labels extra-virgin and virgin refer to the levels of stability and acidity in an oil: extra-virgin has a maximum acidity of about 0.8-1%, whereas virgin is slightly higher, at 1.5-2%. Regular olive oil is a blend of refined, lesser-quality virgin and unrefined virgin oils. People used to talk about “first press” or “cold press” extra-virgin oil, but the terms are largely anachronistic because most extra-virgin oil is now made with centrifuges, not multiple pressings.

The differences are so great that I always have two or three bottles on the go. My best extra-virgin oil – rich in fresh, grassy complexity, with a fruity, pungent, slightly bitter taste – is for finishing off a dish or for serving at the start of a meal with crusty bread. My virgin olive oil is for when I need a larger amount to poach or fry in, but don’t want the flavour to add complexity to a dish.

Whatever you use, always taste your oil before cooking with it (some cheaper virgin and plain oils can be rancid), and store it out of the light, no matter how lovely and green it might look in its pretty glass bottle.

Poached spring greens and trout

One of those dishes where you don’t want the flavour of the oil to dominate the delicate veg, so virgin is the best to go for. Serves four.

800g baby artichokes (ie, about 10)
100ml virgin olive oil
500ml vegetable stock
Salt and black pepper
2 lemons – you need the shaved skin of one, the finely grated zest of the other and 3 tbsp juice
12 spring onions, trimmed and cut into 4cm pieces
150g baby leeks, cut into 4cm pieces
2 large garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
80g samphire (blanched, if very salty)
250g podded peas, fresh or frozen
250g podded broad beans, blanched and skins removed
15g mint leaves
15g basil leaves
4 trout fillets, pin-boned, skin on

Put the oil, stock, shaved lemon skin, half a teaspoon of salt and lots of pepper in a large saute pan for which you have a lid. Bring to a boil, then turn down the heat to medium-low and add the drained artichoke slices, spring onions, leeks and garlic; the vegetables may not be completely covered by liquid, but that’s fine. Cook for three to four minutes, stirring a couple of times, until just cooked but retaining some bite, then add the samphire, peas, broad beans, mint and basil, and cook for another minute. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the veg to a bowl, then turn up the heat to medium.

Sprinkle the trout fillets with a quarter-teaspoon of salt in total, then lay skin side down in the pan. Cover and leave to poach in the oily liquid for four minutes, until almost cooked, then take off the heat and leave, still covered, for two minutes, until the fish is just cooked but slightly pink in the middle.

Divide the greens between four shallow bowls and spoon two tablespoons of the cooking liquid over each portion. Top with a fish fillet, sprinkle over the lemon zest and remaining juice, and serve.

Lamb and chickpea pies

The olive oil in the dough gives a really crisp pie. The dough won’t feel as smooth – in fact, it will feel a bit rough – but it all comes together once cooked. The filling also works well with rice or pasta, if you want to skip the pastry part. Makes 12 pies.

For the pastry
270ml extra-virgin olive oil
270ml boiling water
700g ‘00’ flour

2 tsp salt

First make the pastry. Pour the oil and water into a large bowl, add the flour and salt, and stir to combine. Using your hands, knead the dough in the bowl, then cover with cling-film and leave to rest in the fridge for an hour. (The dough will release some oil during this time, but it will be kneaded back in later.)

Return the mince to the pan, add the tomatoes, chickpeas and stock, turn up the heat and bring to a boil. Turn down the heat to medium and cook for 25 minutes, stirring often, until the sauce has reduced and the mixture is semi-dry. Stir in the spinach until wilted, remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

Heat the oven to 200C/390F/gas mark 6. Knead the dough a bit, then roll into a 30cm-long sausage, cut into 12 equal slices and refrigerate. Working one slice at a time, lay a mini sausage segment horizontally on a worktop. Flatten it a little with the heel of your hand, then roll into a 17cm-diameter, 0.5cm-thick circle. Spoon about four tablespoons of the filling into the centre, then fold over the dough to make a semi-circle. Press down the edges to seal, place on an oven tray lined with greaseproof paper and repeat with the remaining pastry and filling.

Brush both sides of the pies with eggwash, and bake for 30 minutes, until golden-brown. Leave to rest for 15 minutes before serving.

Pasta alla Norma

Mix the aubergine discs with a tablespoon of sea salt and put in acolander. Set aside for an hour, then pat dry with kitchen towel.

Heat a quarter of the oil in a large saute pan on a medium-high flame. Put in a layer of aubergine discs, cook for four minutes, turn over and cook for four minutes more, until browned on both sides. Transfer to aplate lined with kitchen towel, and repeat with the remaining aubergine, adding more oil as required. Once it’sall cooked, set aside the 12 largest slices and roughly chop the rest.

Divide the spaghetti between two plates, layering the reserved aubergine slices into the pasta as you go, scatter over the ricotta and serve with basil sprinkled on top.

• Yotam Ottolenghi is chef/patron of Ottolenghi and Nopi in London.